How Eden Walk’s Trastevere Food Tour at Sunset was born…
It started as a simple craving for authentic Roman street food. But after some brief research and a few hours of walking, I soon found myself creating a food tour around one of my favorite areas in Rome - Trastevere.
Beloved by locals, Trastevere is a neighborhood renown both for its charm and its food culture. The characteristic cobblestone streets and winding, narrow alleys are the perfect route for a tasting adventure.
had originally ventured out for the infamous Roman delicacy- baccala fritto. I’ve been to Rome 5 times now and could not believe I had never sampled this mouthwatering treat. I exactly where I had to go - Filetti di Baccala, one of the oldest baccala fritto-serving establishments in Rome.
Baccala fritto (fried salt cod) has a 100-year old history and is totally unique to Rome. Not something you would typically associate with street food, but once you see someone eating it as they are walking past you, nothing else seems right. It’s a common “to go” lunch during Rome working hours. In fact, when I saw people carrying it out of the restaurant afterwards, I realized I had seen this many times before only I mistook it for a calzone or pizza fritta. But baccala fritto was so much more complex in flavor and texture and for a fried snack, surprisingly light. The crispy batter is the perfect vessel for the steaming, flaky and flavorful cod tucked away inside. Just be careful not to burn your tongue like I did with the first bite. It tends to be served piping hot. Not that this prevented me from continuing to eat it.
I guess I walked off my first snack in no time because before I knew it (a mere 63 minutes later) I found myself hungry again! I had been wandering the Campo di’ Fiore area, which by this hour was my favorite time to go. All of the market vendors were packing in their goods for the day and you can see the square transforming right before your eyes. Flowers and food by day, music and drinks by night. No other square in Rome changed shape so drastically in my opinion and so quickly then Campo de’ Fiori.
I knew it may be too soon to have an actual meal (or another snack) but I did need to go food shopping. It was something I had been meaning to do for days now. Not your average trip to Conad or Carrefour – I was on a quest for very specific and authentic Roman products.
My first stop was Antica Norcineria Viola where I knew a tasting would almost be mandatory. It wasn’t my first time as a patron I admit, but the warm welcome would have resulted regardless. I knew I wanted to buy some salami for a dinner party I was hosting that weekend but I had NO idea where to start. Luckily the guys at Norcineria did - something they have been experts in since 1890. They started me off from mild/young to rich/aged. Each one was more incredible than the last, but ultimately, I decided on my first sample – the youngest of the bunch. I couldn’t tell you the name, although I will never forget the taste. But you’ll just have to go in to sample them all for yourself. “Blind tastings” are always more fun anyway.
After my purchase, I realized I would also need some cheese to go with it. Can’t have meat without cheese here in Italy. I made my way to Antica Pizzicheria Ruggieri
conveniently located directly across from my last stop, in Campo de’ Fiori’s center. I knew that I would be able to enjoy some free samplings here as well. Something I didn’t feel too guilty about, since I knew I